“The show I loved the most was definitely Celine. Marine Serre interested me, also thanks to the idea of the masks, as an emerging designer. As for the next season and the current overall situation, one has to wait and see how everything develops. I hope everything goes well.”
Giacomo Vannuccini, Tricot,
“BALENCIAGA IS PROPHETIC”
Maurizio Coltorti on tailoring vs. streetwear, sustainability and the Coronavirus nightmare
TW: Which designers have shaped the season?
It will certainly not be an easy season after the coronavirus nightmare with its effects on the fashion system – both in terms of production and consumption. As far as fashion shows are concerned, Saint Laurent is certainly one of the highlights of the season with its striking, impeccable jackets straight from the archives, perfectly combined with a brand new latex. The Balenciaga show was impressive and, in a certain sense, almost prophetic, staging the theme of fashion against the background of a universe on the verge of collapse.
Which fashion topics were particularly relevant?
Tailoring continues to prevail over streetwear, to which we have been accustomed in recent years. The trend is solidifying and is being shown in new, multi-faceted forms. In addition, an increasing sensitivity for sustainability was observed in Milan and Paris, not least in the works of Marine Serre and Bottega Veneta, where biodegradable rubber boots were used as an extreme example.
Which up-and-coming designers are you counting on?
Marine Serre, Phipps, Bode New York. All brands that have made ethics and ecological sustainability their creative engine
Maurizio Coltorti, Coltorti, Ancona